During the actual roofing installation, the contractor will lay and secure your chosen materials. This process largely depends on the type of material you choose, and the manufacturer will provide guidelines for securing the roof properly.
The contractor will lay the ice and water barrier, if needed, and then the underlayment. The underlayment will be secured to the drip edge with cap nails. Visit https://www.corpuschristiroofingco.com/ to learn more.
Roofing underlayment is installed directly on the roof deck before installing any other material and acts as a secondary layer, protecting your residence from water infiltration and condensation. It also serves as a backup barrier in case your chosen roof covering is damaged by extreme weather conditions or construction debris.
Choosing the right underlayment requires careful consideration of your roof-covering materials, local building codes and jurisdictional requirements, as well as any roof penetrations such as chimneys or skylights. Consult with a roofing professional or the manufacturer of your chosen roof-covering materials for specific underlayment recommendations.
Underlayment is available in a wide variety of materials, ranging from asphalt-saturated felt to synthetic underlayment. Asphalt-saturated felt is relatively inexpensive but has a short lifespan, while synthetic underlayment offers superior durability, water resistance, and UV protection. The type of underlayment you choose depends on the climate in your area and your budget constraints.
It’s important to carefully follow the installation instructions provided by the underlayment manufacturer and the roof-covering material manufacturer for best results. Using underlayment without proper instruction may invalidate your roof’s warranty coverage and lead to premature roof failure.
Once the underlayment is securely fastened, you can begin installing your chosen roof-covering material. Start at the eaves and work up, overlapping each row according to the underlayment’s recommended guidelines. If you’re working with a natural-shingle roof, be sure to use headlaps and sidelaps to prevent moisture intrusion and wind damage.
As you complete each row, inspect the underlayment to ensure it is free from tears, rips or holes. If needed, remove and re-install the underlayment. In high-wind areas or with synthetic underlayment, it’s common to fasten it with plastic caps rather than standard roof nails to minimize the risk of puncturing the underlayment and voiding your warranty. Be sure to use appropriate fall protection equipment and work shoes with good traction to avoid slipping or falling. It’s also a good idea to periodically inspect your underlayment for damage and wear over time. Taking the time to do this will help you avoid costly roof repairs down the road.
Shingles
The first step of any roofing project is to lay asphalt, felt-paper, or a special waterproof underlayment over the entire roof surface. Most roofs require several layers of this paper to provide proper strength and protection against the elements. This material is also installed around plumbing stacks and vents, to prevent leaks from the inside of the house. The next step is to apply the shingles. Every roofer does this a little differently, but most will start at the lowest point of the roof and work upward. It is generally a good idea to use overlapping rows, and many roofers will apply the next layer over the previous row, rather than cutting it off.
Depending on the type of shingle, manufacturers will recommend a certain amount of exposure and offset (the lateral distance between joints in successive courses, sometimes called stagger or edge-to-edge spacing). This is critical to the overall wind resistance of the roof system. The last thing you want is for the shingles to blow away in high winds!
Before beginning the shingle installation, it is important to make sure that the roof deck surface is clean and free of any loose debris. This is especially true around the edges of the roof where the shingles meet. It may be necessary to use a power washer to remove dirt and mold, as well as other substances that may damage the new shingles.
Once the roof has been cleaned and prepared, a shingle starter strip is installed on the drip edge of the roof. The strip provides a smooth surface that allows the rest of the shingles to adhere properly. It is also used to seal the ends of the shingles, and helps prevent moisture from seeping into interior spaces.
After installing the starter strip, a full course of field shingles is laid, working left and right toward the ridges of the roof. The end of each shingle is then bent over the top of the preceding shingle and nailed in place. This creates a watertight seal that will keep rain and snow from entering the home.
Flashing
Flashing is a waterproof material installed around joints and protrusions like chimneys, vents, skylights, and pipes to keep water from seeping underneath roof shingles or into the building envelope. It prevents rot, mildew, and insects. It also reinforces and protects these areas where the roof meets walls, dormers, or other features that penetrate a roof. Flashing is usually made of thin metal and can be either exposed or concealed.
To install flashing, the roofing crew must first prepare the area by measuring and cutting the flashing to the appropriate size and shape. A layer of sealant is then applied to the area and allowed to dry before the flashing installation process begins. Once the flashing is in place, it is secured with a nail or screw and covered with roofing cement or caulk to create a watertight seal.
Different types of flashing are available, depending on the type of roof and its construction. For example, step flashing is a two-part system that sits where the roof plane meets a vertical wall such as a dormer or chimney. It consists of a series of L-shaped pieces of sheet metal that overlap to form steps that rainwater will run down. The base of each L is nailed to the roof, while the top is secured to the wall. Counter flashing is then installed over the step flashing to cover and protect it.
Other flashing types include valley and pipe flashing, which are designed to reinforce and redirect water away from vulnerable ‘v’-shaped wedges in a roof system. Chimney flashing, which is fitted alongside a chimney, is another type of roof flashing. Drip edges are set along the edge of a roof and help to direct rainwater into gutters.
Although some inexperienced contractors may use continuous flashing on sidewalls (walls that are perpendicular to the roof slope), this method is not recommended as it leaves the sidewall vulnerable to leaks if one piece of flashing becomes damaged or corroded. A better option is to use step flashing, which has short sections of metal that are nailed to the headwall, overlapping the flashing in the course below and the shingles in the course above.
Ridge Cap
The ridge cap is an important element of a roof that protects the peak from water infiltration. A leaky ridge cap can result in a variety of issues, including mold, mildew, and rot. Homeowners can minimize the likelihood of leaks by ensuring that the ridge cap is adequately protected and undergoing regular inspections and maintenance.
A ridge cap is made of a durable material such as asphalt shingles, tile, or metal panels and covers the top of the roof’s ridge. It’s installed to prevent moisture from seeping into the underlying roofing materials, and it’s secured with an adhesive or roofing cement. In addition to its protective functions, the ridge cap adds a finishing touch to the roofline and elevates the aesthetic of the home.
Ridge caps are available in a variety of colors and styles to match your roof’s style and architectural design. They’re also designed to withstand harsh weather conditions and last for years. When properly installed by a professional South Jersey roofing contractor, a ridge cap can significantly enhance the longevity of your roof.
Typically, a ridge cap is built with a shingle that’s colored to match the surrounding shingles, and it’s set on top of the shingle row at the ridge. The ridge cap is then nailed into place using a pattern that’s close to the edge and farther apart towards the center of the cap. Once the entire ridge cap is nailed in place, it’s covered with more shingles to prevent moisture penetration.
While DIYers may be tempted to take on the task of installing their own ridge cap, it’s always best to leave this job to an experienced roofer. A licensed, insured, and bonded roofer has the equipment and skills necessary to install your ridge cap correctly, and they’ll also be able to assess any additional issues that might need to be addressed. This is especially true for homeowners with steep roofs, as a misaligned or improperly installed ridge cap can result in a number of serious problems. For example, a leaky ridge cap can cause moisture to seep into the attic and damage other components of the home.